Derby Talk

Make sure the synthetic wax is both hydrophobic (repels water) and oleophobic (repels oil), as I have seen they almost always indicate that they are hydrophobic, but only a few state that they are also oleophobic. Do you know of a specific brand that is oleophobic? Some treatment products I've seen...

I'm not an expert on oils, but I would venture that Buckeye Brew Extreme Oil (BB Extreme) is one of those "D-1-like" vendor offerings, based on its description and reputation : BBE is not like D-1. BBE is a great oil, but you don't want to put very much on. I would say that X-1 is much cl...

Hey VK,
I watched this guy's series on building a pwd track and found it entertaining. Perhaps it could help with different ideas. He even does a timer.

https://youtu.be/4Skq1h5VYBo?si=LZOrqXCY21SuruzL

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I like this video. Very nice work on the editing.

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A couple of things. I'm curious as well about the wheels. VK's spot on with the analysis on modified wheels. Way easier to make them slower by doing the wrong thing inadvertently. The wheel sealant is a variable for me as well, as I've never used it. You may want to try a proven sealant to eliminate...

I am curious how others cut the notch / recess / inset into the body to accommodate the offset of the dominant front wheel (DFW). In our racing heydays we pretty much just shaved off the entire body by ~1/16" from the front until just past the back of the wheel ( here's a body so cut from Vita...

...we like an adaption of Sporty's rather straightforward "no front wheels" alignment method ... using a thumbtack to elevate the front of the body into its racing configuration. I see that during our extended derby hiatus that LightninBoy's method refined the "no front wheels" ...

I think you should run the car slowly down a table with a yard stick to act as a "rail." Take notice if the rear wheel is dragging the rail. If it is, that could account for the slower speeds. We typically have to inset the body where the dfw is to keep that rear wheel off the rail. Sent f...

You definitely don't need to worry about being too light.

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For the Meguiar's, I would use an applicator to apply a thin coating to the inside of the wheels, let it dry and haze and buff with a fluffy pipe cleaner. Maybe 2-3 coats? If I were gonna try the Dry-Type silicone, I'd treat it the same as I did with Max-Pro. Spray some into a cup, wait 10 minutes ...

Answer #1- The nose elevation matters more when drilling the rears on an angle. If using bent rears, make sure to keep the nose at the ride height of the dfw when tuning them to keep from inducing toe in or out. Answer #2- What is the weight on your dfw? With that cog, I wouldn't worry about it bein...

Looks good!! Now I'm hungry! Lol

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The stock Awana wheelbase is likely the cause of your wobbles. Pushing those axle holes back to the rear of the car would be a huge advantage over those running a stock wheelbase.

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That's pretty creative!!

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Was the car that beat you from an experienced racer? I could probably beat quite a few with a bulky car because I know how to prep wheels and axles well. I would personally recommend focusing on that before exotic ideas. However, that would be a fun/interesting rabbit trail! At the high level of rac...