block/body Flatness
block/body Flatness
I cut a pine block into smaller slabs using a band saw. I noticed the the ones from the center are not perfectly flat. I am fairly certain that having the underside of the car flat/level in imperative.I was wondering how everyone handled this. Jointer?
Thanks
P.
Thanks
P.
Re: block/body Flatness
Perdu, it seems to me that you're asking this because now you need to drill your axle holes, and you're struggling with the challenge of drilling them perpendicular to the side. And that is made more difficult since you don't have a flat bottom or top, right?
If my assumption is correct, drill your holes before slicing your block. that way, if the bottom or top isn't 100% flat it really shouldn't matter. Of course, you can 'clean it up' with a sander at that point.
If my assumption is correct, drill your holes before slicing your block. that way, if the bottom or top isn't 100% flat it really shouldn't matter. Of course, you can 'clean it up' with a sander at that point.
Re: block/body Flatness
Thanks for the reply.Yes,your assumption is correct, I have been using the pro-body tool to drill my holes.
- Stan Pope
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Re: block/body Flatness
If I understand correctly, you are making multiple cars from one block, and that is why flatness of a middle-cut bodies is a concern. I've not that problem, since I use a more wasteful bench saw with a 1/8" kerf! A planer sounds like a good tool, but if I didn't have a lot of uses, I'd be many $ ahead to just buy more kits!
Stan
"If it's not for the boys, it's for the birds!"
"If it's not for the boys, it's for the birds!"
- Go Bubba Go
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Re: block/body Flatness
We just "buy more kits".Stan Pope wrote:If I understand correctly, you are making multiple cars from one block, and that is why flatness of a middle-cut bodies is a concern. I've not that problem, since I use a more wasteful bench saw with a 1/8" kerf! A planer sounds like a good tool, but if I didn't have a lot of uses, I'd be many $ ahead to just buy more kits!
Our typical block ends up in three pieces:
#1) A thin (typically the height of the 1/4" nominal Tungsten cubes) slab from the non-slotted side that we use for our boy's Scout cars.
#2) A not-as-narrow (1/4" would leave the slotted areas very weak) slab from the slotted side that we use for our family fleet of Open Class cars.
#3) A leftover chunk in the middle that the 3 year old and 5 year old use for painting practice.
Forced to use chunk #3 in a car, we'd probably smooth the "better" side out with a belt sander (got one this year from Santa), cut another slab, smooth out the remaining "better" side, cut another slab, etc. The risk you run here is that it is very easy when sanding to end up with a bottom that is no longer perpendicular with the sides.
Considering the minimal price difference between the 17007 wheel and axle kit and the 17006 kit with wheels, axles, and a new block, we just buy another whole kit.
Bubba
"Who's Grandpa's neighbor?"... Phil Davis, Down and Derby
Re: block/body Flatness
Non practical suggestions -
1- make axle tool that can make wholes in various heights (adjustable).
2- exact flat cuts, with accurate cuts and guide cutter, laser cutter ??
3- spend the extra dollars and buy more kits !
Sporty
1- make axle tool that can make wholes in various heights (adjustable).
2- exact flat cuts, with accurate cuts and guide cutter, laser cutter ??
3- spend the extra dollars and buy more kits !
Sporty