That's quite alright, but it seems this topic was becoming more of a discussion about league racing. Especially when it looks like someone was making an attempt to steer the discussion in that direction. Unfortunately, there are those that have tried and continue to try to stoke their egos or promote their products by signing up under assumed names (which is a misrepresentation, of course).psycaz wrote:Is it ok to continue discussing the pros and cons of the rear fenders, and possibly front, since those are allowed by most scout rules?
2010 Test cars
- gpraceman
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Re: 2010 Test cars
Randy Lisano
Romans 5:8
Awana Grand Prix and Pinewood Derby racing - Where a child, an adult and a small block of wood combine for a lot of fun and memories.
Romans 5:8
Awana Grand Prix and Pinewood Derby racing - Where a child, an adult and a small block of wood combine for a lot of fun and memories.
Re: 2010 Test cars
OK, so let's get back to basics:
quadad wrote:Why do many of the cars with fenders have only rear fenders ? Aren't the front wheels causing more air to be displaced ? Aren't the rears protected by the fronts some ?
Re: 2010 Test cars
I still would like to hear from some of the 'experts' why you see so many more cars with rear fenders only - as opposed to either front only or front and rear fenders.
Also, I have been trying to think of ways to make light-weight fenders easily removable. We had good luck last year cutting out and glueing on foam insulation board on top of my one son's Squidward car (thanks to DT tips on the glue/water mix for sealing foam !). So I am thinking why not make some foam fenders held on with toothpicks. If (and this can be big ) we have a gentle stop section for some test runs, that would make them easily removed or added and provide near negligible weight penalty. This way I could alternate a couple of runs with fenders on with a couple of runs with fenders off and get a real good comparison.
I do admit to us rushing to glue down Squidward at the last minute and putting his large body BACKWARDS on top of the car with that wonderful 2-part Epoxy !!!
Also, I have been trying to think of ways to make light-weight fenders easily removable. We had good luck last year cutting out and glueing on foam insulation board on top of my one son's Squidward car (thanks to DT tips on the glue/water mix for sealing foam !). So I am thinking why not make some foam fenders held on with toothpicks. If (and this can be big ) we have a gentle stop section for some test runs, that would make them easily removed or added and provide near negligible weight penalty. This way I could alternate a couple of runs with fenders on with a couple of runs with fenders off and get a real good comparison.
I do admit to us rushing to glue down Squidward at the last minute and putting his large body BACKWARDS on top of the car with that wonderful 2-part Epoxy !!!
Re: 2010 Test cars
All I can think of is there may not be enough room in front of the axles for the fenders with the desired about of blend/point.
Trust me when I say, I may look into it when I cut out some fenders later.
Trust me when I say, I may look into it when I cut out some fenders later.
- pwrd by tungsten
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Re: 2010 Test cars
I think it is room and weight. Any weight up front is of course a difficult trade off.
However another very fast car does have one front fender. It is using a peg for the raised wheel...
I am considering using a popsicle stick running across the body as a connection point....
Not sure how it is going to work though. I will recess it into the body for aero reasons..
However another very fast car does have one front fender. It is using a peg for the raised wheel...
I am considering using a popsicle stick running across the body as a connection point....
Not sure how it is going to work though. I will recess it into the body for aero reasons..
W Racing!!!!
- FatSebastian
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Re: 2010 Test cars
How does the weight / density of sealed foam board compare to balsa wood?quadad wrote:We had good luck last year cutting out and glueing on foam insulation board on top of my one son's Squidward car (thanks to DT tips on the glue/water mix for sealing foam !). So I am thinking why not make some foam fenders held on with toothpicks.
Re: 2010 Test cars
- I don't have any numbers for you here, but the foam material is MUCH lighter. Its a little putzy to work with, but so is balsa. Balsa damages fairly easily, and I am sure that the foam is worse, but its an issue for both. Its also MUCH, MUCH cheaper (most people probably have some laying around). The only trick was the sealing. I crossed my fingers that the 2-part epoxy would work and it held great. I would use that again for a permanent installation.FatSebastian wrote:How does the weight / density of sealed foam board compare to balsa wood?
- pwrd by tungsten
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Re: 2010 Test cars
What about the plastic shells they use for RC cars. They seem very light. The clear ones?
How could we use that plastic for a fender?
How could we use that plastic for a fender?
W Racing!!!!
- FatSebastian
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Re: 2010 Test cars
Or might a strategically cut styrofoam egg carton have some experimental utility?pwrd by tungsten wrote:What about the plastic shells they use for RC cars. They seem very light. The clear ones?
Re: 2010 Test cars
Maybe a plastic canopy, like the ones they sell for pinewood (with driver) but only larger?
Issue is finding something that is large enough to deflect air over the top and bottom of the wheel. Easy to find some kind of flat item to seal off the canopy on its bottom for air flow.
Issue is finding something that is large enough to deflect air over the top and bottom of the wheel. Easy to find some kind of flat item to seal off the canopy on its bottom for air flow.
Re: 2010 Test cars
Maybe, the solution would be to use a 'push forming' technique like some on the paper model forum do. Carve and prep a mold which would be a little larger than the standard wheel. Take your suitable plastic (2 liter bottle, maybe), heat it and plunge your mold into the heated plastic. Let the plastic cool and trim it to size and shape. Repeat this process as many times as necessary. Once you have the mold plunged into the plastic and have the plastic cooled, you should be able to hit it with some heat again and shrink it tight before you trim it.
Another possibility would be using brass. Most hobby shops carry sheet and strip brass from K&S in many thicknesses. You could cut and bend the fenders in whatever thickness you saw fit. You could solder wires to it for attachment and polish the metal for a nice finish or prime and paint like the rest of the car. Just don't go too thin or people will get cut handling it.
Another possibility would be using brass. Most hobby shops carry sheet and strip brass from K&S in many thicknesses. You could cut and bend the fenders in whatever thickness you saw fit. You could solder wires to it for attachment and polish the metal for a nice finish or prime and paint like the rest of the car. Just don't go too thin or people will get cut handling it.
If no one is questioning whether our cars are legal, I'm not working hard enough at interpreting the rules.
- pwrd by tungsten
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Re: 2010 Test cars
Since this got way of topic for awhile. I'm hoping to in the next two weeks, have a few more cars done and some photos and info.
So stay tuned.
Sporty
So stay tuned.
Sporty
Re: 2010 Test cars
Here is three cars that some of the kids have started working on, naturally with help from dad.
Sporty
Sporty
- pwrd by tungsten
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