Hope these photos come out. This car was a ton of fun to make and my last personal fun car before starting with the kids on their cars.
I do hope you'll share the cars soon.
The car is so fast it can't be photographed....
Just kidding. Let me try again.
Speedster made me this block with a nice spot for tungston cylinders behind the rear axel. Here you can see where I shaved off the DFW side by 1/16th of an inch.
Here is where I reviewed the Sporty spoon shaping technique. Of course I was too timid to go as thin as him.
Spoon-like shape here.
Here is my new painting gig. Dont tell my wife I took her utensil hanger!
All painted up. I initially tried to paint the black widow symbol on but with the pacific NW humidity the painter tape pulled off chuncks of black lacquer. Had to sand down down to primer
Here is a close up of the screws placed over the rear axel to set the canting angle as per the Speedster technique he discussed in an earlier post.
Bottom view of the screws.
Speedster suggested cutting the tips off the screws as seen in this close up.
Rear axels nice and canted! The DFW axel was bent too much in this photo and I bent a new one after trying to tune. My RR pro jig lets the nail slip at times and bends the snot out of it.
Went with red duct tape to make the widow symbol. I went with the black widow for two reasons-1) To thank Speedster for the help as he has a car called the widow and 2) We found a black widow in our scout tent after camping out with the family (again dont tell me wife)
The overly zealously bent DFW axel can be seen here as well as how nicely the rear axels came out.
Overall I learned a ton building this car and I have already begun to work on my son's and daughter's cars this year with them. What a difference a year on DT makes!
Thank you for the photos of the car I like it..
And I like your new painting gig..
But you might want to run out and get your wife a new utenil stand for Christmas.
Befor she gives you the rolling pen & a fry pan.
Best of luck with the car & have a Merry Christmas.
All due to good building materials, excellent mentoring and a little bit of beginners luck. Thanks for testing it.
Does that car turn hard into the rail with that DFW? How much does it turn over 4 feet?
Ingore that aspect of the photo. I way overbend the axel with my RR tool but I installed the wheel to get photos. I corrected the axel and reinstalled the wheel but did not reshoot photos. The car has a 4 in drift over 4 feet but I have no clue what the axel is bent at now.
Ahhh, that makes more sense. You had me worried there for a minute (thought I was back to square 1 in my learning of DFW workings).
Thanks for sharing your car with us!
Thanks for the estimate on the rear axels. I basically have the axels in the slots and then used the screws so that the tip of the axel was moved away from the bottom of the slot by about 1/16 of an inch (so that the tip was about level with the top of the slot). When looking at it from table level the outside corners were just barely lifted off the surface.
When thinking of this canting technique I bet you could put a blob of epoxy in the slot just where the axel tip would be (where you see the screw coming through the bottom of the car in the photo above), let it harded and then sand it so it was flush with the bottom of the car. The axel would then be canted from the bottom of the slot (nearest the axel head) to the top of the slot (near the axel tip) likely giving a reproducible angle of about 2-3 degrees. I am going to have to try this for an easy method to cant rear slotted axels.
Glad you liked the spoon knock off!
If you HAVE to use original slots, those screws will certainly do the trick.