*Fenders* Nellie Faye

[Vitamin K]

Ah, so like so?:



I've found the sanding wheel on my dremel to be extremely useful for shaping balsa pieces. I did balsa fenders on a car I built last year, but they were "half fenders", in that they were just for looks, and didn't drop below the car body.

Whoda, can you show me an example of this bevel/notch that needs to be done on the underside of the fenders? I'm planning on fendering this Derby season, and I wanna make sure I'm doing it right.

You can see my step by step on my other Nellie Faye build

[whodathunkit]

Vitamin K,
In Sporty's photo above:
It shows what I would call the notched cut out along the bottom of fender and car body.

Here are some example photos: Of the one piece laser cut Nellie Faye fender.

In this photo you will see no notch cut out in the bottom of the fender for clearance.

Even with the one piece laser cut Aero Fenders there is no notch cut out in them.

So you would need to do something like this to get the clearance needed..
so the fenders will not rub on the guide rail.


Here are some examples as far as what I'd call a notch cut / or a beveled fender
(yellow car notched fender) beveled fender red car.


Normally you would want to have the notch or the bevel flush with the bottom of the car body.
I think the notched cut fender would be the better way go..
as far as not haveing any clearance issues as well.
Hope this helps you out Vitamin K.

Whoda.

[sporty]

UPDATE;


I had a issue, my higher up axle holes, created a problem for me, The fender (balsa one) would not fit right.

I had to grind off the 1/2 fender (back one) and remove and notch anyhow.

I have a few emails into derbyevolution. I am awaiting a reply. To see if I did something wrong. or if the fender kit, is more for stock axle hole location. versus raised or I did something wrong.

So, I proceeded as mentioned, I sanded down the 1 partial fender. and installed, then removed/ notched out for the spacing.


Here is work in progress pictures.

My front fenders did not line up or was not long enough for my front nose. I blame this on me. As after I glued them together I had sanded / trued up the wood. I believe this caused the fenders to be a tad short.

I went ahead with the build anyhow. I'm okay with it.

I used cheap elmers glue this time, To try it out, my previous ones, I used either super glue or epoxy. I cant recall off hand, without jumping back to my older post / build.













The key is, to make sure you have clearance with the wheels before gluing the fenders on. So I put some wheels and axles on and checked clearance thru out the process of clamping / gluing.

Prior to that, I marked a line on the inside wood, so I had a ruff idea where to reline up when I started to glue.











Now I started with the notch and shaping.
















Now the ugly part !

I use -- micro-fill, model filler. I mentioned this in previous build of the other cars too. of this design.

I do it thin and its a bit messy, but really helps fill in the tiny pores. let dry and sand lightly with 400 grit.

Sometimes I have to do it twice.



I may have to do it again, but here it is, sanded after one application of the micro-fill.



I have not done much or any inside wheel well sanding yet.











Now, My shape this time, I am hoping is a little more closer, truer to the original car. My previous two I think were a not as close. Its hard with out one in your hand. He is also a great modeler and builder and I do not have his skills or abilities.

But I hope the previous two and this one, He would feel I did a close enough job to honor him.

I am hoping to use the tungsten wheel well weights for this car. that's why some of the rear weight pockets have not been routed out.

More to do yet, when I have time, I'll do more and post more. stay tuned.

[sporty]

Okay, I have hit the wall a few times.

We all have issues and set backs. Well I am no exception.

I used a different paint, and got some serious orange peel. Instead of hiding it or not showing or talking about it.

I thought why not be very open and be human.

So, I have been trying to resolve this, sanding, ect. broke a piece of the fender off, sanding and glued back on. I am not back on track, (I think)..

However. here are pictures.

I think it would be very hard for a scout to build this car, easy to break and harder to paint. But it still can be done and the results may not be awesome. but anything is possible.

So pictures:









I took a gamble and it did not pay off.


















I am moving a little faster pace then the last two cars. This could be my first fault.

But I feel I am going to be back on track soon.

Sporty

[whodathunkit]

Sporty,

I don't think you are the only person this has ever happend to!

I have my troubles as well with bad paint jobs on balsa as well..
Have you ever tried using Shop line JC630 4.2 voc polyurethane clear
with the JH6370 4.2 voc hardner on balsa over the paint?

[sporty]

Well revealing and making the info as real and accurate as I can, Works the best I think.

I'm feeling like I'm back on track.


The blemishes I feel are minor now and I'm getting closer to getting the color on it.


So here our some update pictures.


Some more sanding.



]

Flat white now, versus the primer gray.







Sporty

[Vitamin K]

Thanks for the honest progress shots and updates, Sporty.

If you ever have time, I'd like to get your reaction to using CA glue on balsa, as opposed to the wood filler. My experience is that it adds a lot of strength to the wood, without adding much in the way of weight.

[sporty]

I've wanted to. But never got around to ordering the car thin. Used on many r/c kits. There's is also a spray you can use with cash. Dries super fast and strong.

[Vitamin K]

Do you know the name of this spray product? I use CA glue, but spraying sounds easier. More expensive though, I bet....

I've wanted to. But never got around to ordering the car thin. Used on many r/c kits. There's is also a spray you can use with cash. Dries super fast and strong.

[sporty]

Do you know the name of this spray product? I use CA glue, but spraying sounds easier. More expensive though, I bet....

I've wanted to. But never got around to ordering the car thin. Used on many r/c kits. There's is also a spray you can use with cash. Dries super fast and strong.

I don't recall what its called. It works in conjunction with the car. You use both.

[sporty]

krylon fluorescent green.


more or less base coat.



first wet sand.





I did two coats, wet sand after each one, upto 1500 grit, started with 400.


Next came some vinyl decals.







Clear coat.



















I think I will add another clear coat and wet sand and buff.


Mistakes made; Using heat gone to adhere the r/c trim coat. it wrinkled more and, blistered some of the paint. lesson learned. I usually use my small hot sock iron. But wanted to try the heat gun. If I was to use the heat gun again.

I think I would add the middle covering first, then glue the fenders on and then sand, ect, paint. Just cover up the middle that would be mostly done already.

I had a hard time before using the small r/c hobbico iron. I need the even smaller one out there. Its to wide to easily get into the middle, once the fenders are on.

So not as well done as I would have liked, but I have 1 maybe, a few of these more to do. Until I get it just about perfect.

Also,

Since I have posted allot of pictures, step by step as I could. And also my other Nellie faye build, making my own fenders, step by step.

My future Nellie faye style builds will only be of just the final build photos.

This was more geared towards the kit fenders, for $2.95 right now on sale. I think they are well worth the money. and heck Id get some while they last. If you ever want to try and build this style of car.


I need to get some weight and wheels on this car. I am awaiting the puma weights to install.



Sporty

[sporty]

[Laserman]

Oh my!

Now that is pretty!

I hope the weights have gotten to you already.

It would be cool to see them on a Nellie Faye.

Mark I need your address for the weights. Please PM.



This is one way I tackle the problem of gluing fenders/ etc.

I place it on a plastic cutting board. The cutting board is probably made out of HDPE or HDMW plastic, so crazy glue wont stick to it.

After the parts are soaked with thin crazy glue and dry, then I slip a blade between the cutting board and the parts. The glue separates from the cutting board before it breaks the wood.

[whodathunkit]

Sporty, man that is some very nice work!
I first thought you were going to do a Mike & Ike car.. you tricked me with the Monster car.

PM sent Thanks for the weights to try out Joe.

Joe, do you also use a CA glue accelerator to speed up the drying time of the CA glue?
I know alot of times builders use the ca glue to cover the balsa befor painting
or a white wood glue thined in water.

Would Deft lacquer sanding sealer work for this also as I'm thinking weights on the glue types here.

[sporty]

Sporty, man that is some very nice work!
I first thought you were going to do a Mike & Ike car.. you tricked me with the Monster car.

PM sent Thanks for the weights to try out Joe.

Joe, docs you also use a CA glue accelerator to speed up the drying time of the CA glue?
I know alot of times builders use the ca glue to cover the balsa befor painting
or a white wood glue thined in water.

Would Deft lacquer sanding sealer work for this also as I'm thinking weights on the glue types here.