How to do a thin car/ balsa fill

[sporty]

I cant recall, when the last time I seen someone post how they do it.

Adding balsa into a super thin, hollowed out car.


using a pinewood derby block from the official kit ! and a dremel and a cutter disk.


While I am not very good at good try cuts with a dremel and I no longer own a scroll saw.


here ya go.

I took a full block and marked out, where I wanted it cut out. I did not cut the block to 1/4 thick yet.







I did drill the axle holes, before cutting out the bottom of the wood.


However. I just cut the block to 1/4 thick




I had to go back and dremel a bit more.





1/4 thick balsa.





the sides of the frame are 1/8th thick.

I used elmers glue and some super glue gel. Once dry I will start removing some of the balsa.

Out of time for now.

Sporty

[sporty]

I need a smaller hole saw, but it worked, but one piece looks a little ruff.





adding on some balsa fenders.









Its only your imagination and your kids, that can limit to what you build.



Sporty

[sporty]

It might not be as fancy, but if you cant afford to buy a thin framed car with balsa or rules do not allow you to buy that, but you can still use a bsa kit and buy some 1/4 thick balsa to do it.

Don't worry about being as fancy or pretty as a store bought one, nothing says pride, when its your own work !.

And in the end. it can still look great.

Some r/c monokote covering. r.c small iron with sock needed to bond monokote.









Flat top with 1/2 fender / sides. Does not have the fancy 1/2 shaped cut out by the wheels, but still not bad in the end.









Sporty

[whodathunkit]

Neat car there Sporty!

And keep posting the tips on how to apply the monkote covering will you!
Been thinking about useing the monkote on some more builds & I could use some more
good tips & pointers though.

[LightninBoy]

NICE!!!

That's exactly how I do my balsa fills in that I fill the void completely with balsa then cut out (with a scroll saw in my case) the balsa in the shape that I want.

BTW - I recommend a covering up those balsa holes on the bottom side too with monokote, packing tape, or whatever.

[sporty]

NICE!!!

That's exactly how I do my balsa fills in that I fill the void completely with balsa then cut out (with a scroll saw in my case) the balsa in the shape that I want.

BTW - I recommend a covering up those balsa holes on the bottom side too with monokote, packing tape, or whatever.

I already used white monokote on the bottom forgot to get a pic.

[sporty]

Neat car there Sporty!

And keep posting the tips on how to apply the monkote covering will you!
Been thinking about useing the monkote on some more builds & I could use some more
good tips & pointers though.

I had a good tip one years ago. Lost on here somewhere.

[Laserman]

Lowrider!
That looks awesome!
I bet it is quick too!

[Vitamin K]

This is really a great way to get a light body that's rigid and crush-resistant. I bet if you paint the inner balsa with CA glue you'll get even better strength.

[Noskills]

I have been making a few cars just like this with the exception that I do not fill the hollow car with balsa but I but a balsa top on it. (1/16th I think). I also slant the front down and put a separate piece of balsa on that (wood putty in the groove between the pieces). I coat the whole thing in CA glue, sand and prime. Thats how i did this one and it was our fastest to date. I hope to take this style car (stock wheel base in the example), bring the wheelbase to 5 inches, add some fenders and pick up some speed. (Thats my plan for my scout car-have yet to ask my son what he wants to do)

Noskills

http://www.derbytalk.com/viewtopic.php? ... mpy#p73629

[roosclan]

Interesting idea to fill it with balsa. I use my scroll saw to cut out the frame, but we then cover the top and bottom with 1/64" or 1/32" birch plywood from a hobby store. I prefer the 1/64" for weight saving and ground clearance. We leave the body hollow except for the tungsten cubes. Been doing it this way for almost 5 years. This year we used 1/32" basswood, but I don't like how flimsy it is. The cars didn't seem to flex much, but the 1/64" plywood is sturdier even though it's thinner (I just can't find it anywhere within a reasonable drive). Here are the boys' cars from 2010:

[whodathunkit]

Neat looking cars roosclan!
Is the braceing rod metal or something?

[roosclan]

Neat looking cars roosclan!
Is the braceing rod metal or something?

carbon fiber bar. Since then, I leave the wood connecting the front axles (since the rules say the wheelbase must not change and all 4 wheels have to be on) so I don't need the bar.

[Scrollsawer]

I remember seeing these pics. on DT from a couple years back. If I recall, it's some type of rigid, lightweight supporting rod.

Scrollsawer

[sporty]

Carbon fiber rod.