Coffin Nail Racing - Car Photos

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whodathunkit
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Re: Coffin Nail Racing - Car Photos

Post by whodathunkit »

Coffin Nail Racing wrote: Wed Jun 06, 2018 12:54 am My "Custom Painting Pinewood Derby Cars with Spray Paint Cans !" is finally posted.
Yes it's a long video, but there's a lot of info and a lot of steps to painting car's that look like mine.

SEE VIDEO HERE
https://youtu.be/lOKj0VgEnzk https://youtu.be/lOKj0VgEnzk

Feel Free To Ask Questions In the Video Comments 😁

If you like my videos please subscribe and consider donating to my PayPal at gWebberArts@gmail.com so I can keep making more videos.

Hi George!
After reviewing your cool video some more I have a few questions to ask that i did not hear mentioned.

1st ? :
When I'm finished painting with a particular paint type or color.. Should I turn the rattle can or can's up side down to spray out the excess paint
so that I won't waste paint by letting the paint dry out clogging up the spray nozzles .. before my next spray paint projects.

2nd ? :
I understand why your priming to seal the wood grain and sanding smooth to get the best paint finish possible.
So my Question is this.. because this is where my painting projects seem to go south on me!
Even with the same brand names and paint types.. If the clear sealer is sprayed to soon on the paint.. it seems to crack the paint finish.

Should I wait 7 days for the spray paint to cure or for the fresh paint smell to leave the project before spraying the clear sealer on fresh paint.

Hoping that you can help me get the cracking effects out of my spray painting projects.
What type of automobile can be spelled the same forwards & backwards?
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Re: Coffin Nail Racing - Car Photos

Post by Coffin Nail Racing »

Turning the Cans upside down and spraying till clear is in big debate among Rattle Can users.
Some people say it just waste the propellant and you'll end up with paint in the can you can't use.
I myself do flip the can and spray it out and wipe the tip. Another option is to soak the spray cap in "goof off" or other paint solvent that won't melt the cap.

Save the spray caps from empty cans and swap them if you get a clog in one. Also there are online shops that specialize in paint for graffiti artist that sell spray caps in assorted styles for many paint brands .. worth looking into.

Paint Cracking ... while your paints might be the same brand , BE SURE you are not painting lacquer over enamel, that combo will pretty much always fail. Beyond that, ALWAYS test your paints in the order you plan on using them on material similar to your .project.
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Re: Coffin Nail Racing - Car Photos

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P.S, I forgot ... if the paints are compatible I generally wait 8 to 12 hours depending if I'm in a hurry or not. The paint won't be "cured" as "cured" and "dry" are to different things. Waiting "7 days" or until the paint is gassed off is something I'd do if I was going to rub it out with a Polish or wax it.
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Re: Coffin Nail Racing - Car Photos

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Coffin Nail Racing wrote: Wed Jun 13, 2018 8:02 pm P.S, I forgot ... if the paints are compatible I generally wait 8 to 12 hours depending if I'm in a hurry or not. The paint won't be "cured" as "cured" and "dry" are to different things. Waiting "7 days" or until the paint is gassed off is something I'd do if I was going to rub it out with a Polish or wax it.
Thank's for the tips .. I think my problem with the compatible type paints cracking is from being in to much of a hurry to shoot the clear coat on.
What type of automobile can be spelled the same forwards & backwards?
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Re: Coffin Nail Racing - Car Photos

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I invite folks to try something and see how you like it. Let me know your results. Pinewood Derby cars will never be subjected to the elements so I abuse the Filler Primer.

Let's paint a piece of 2X4 Black with Red flames. Start with a clean piece of wood.
1 can of Filler Primer from Walmart. This is a building product and it's lacquer based. Don't sand the wood. Tack it off with a tack rag. Put on 4 or 5 coats letting the primer dry between costs. Let it dry overnight just to be safe then scotchbrite the primer to remove the shine and tack it off. Use a very light touch with the tack rag. All you want to do is lift dust.

Testors sells One Coat Lacquer in very small cans. It doesn't always cover in one coat but give it 2 coats if you need too. It will dry quickly. You will need 1 can of black and 1 can of red.
Buy a can of Clear from a store that serves Body Shops. Buy the Single Stage which is Air Dry as opposed to 2 stage which will dry chemically. Once the 2 stage is activated the entire can will dry. We don't want that. Paint the car black. It will dry quickly. Give the car 1 light coat of clear, let it dry for a few minutes, and then give it a heavy coat of clear. Let it dry overnight.

Buy a Flame decal from one of the vendors. They have several designs. Scotchbrite the clear, tack it off, and apply the decal. Mask off the rest of the car (2X4) and paint the red flames. Don't apply anymore paint then necessary. One light coat should be sufficient. (We're doing a test. Let's see what we get.) Very carefully remove the decal. If there is any red that snuck under the decal you should be able to sand it off because you will be sanding into the clear. That's why we clear coated over the black. Let the red dry a few minutes and then put on a light coat of clear. Let it dry a few minutes and then put on 2 more coats of clear. You're finished.

If there are deep gouges in your Pinewood Derby car from a Bandsaw then sand them out but the car doesn't need to be perfectly smooth. I can sand out a car with 80 grit paper and keep using a lighter touch as I sand. The Filler Primer will fill a lot. I have never had to sand the Filler Primer. I simply Scotchbrite it. If you want to sand the Filler Primer that's fine but it doesn't need to be perfect. Experiment with it and do the least amount of work that needs to be done to give you a beautiful paint job. With a little guidance a scout can do the work.

The flames on this car could have been painted 3 colors with the colors flowing into each other. The 3 colors could have been applied one right after the other. You're not going for a shine with the color. The Clearcoat will give you the shine.
I'd like to hear the results from anyone who try this.

I invite any questions.
Have Fun with your scout
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Re: Coffin Nail Racing - Car Photos

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Speedster wrote: Thu Jun 14, 2018 8:01 amIf there are deep gouges in your Pinewood Derby car from a Bandsaw then sand them out but the car doesn't need to be perfectly smooth. I can sand out a car with 80 grit paper and keep using a lighter touch as I sand. The Filler Primer will fill a lot. I have never had to sand the Filler Primer. I simply Scotchbrite it. If you want to sand the Filler Primer that's fine but it doesn't need to be perfect. Experiment with it and do the least amount of work that needs to be done to give you a beautiful paint job. With a little guidance a scout can do the work.

I invite any questions.
Have Fun with your scout
Speedster
I don't disagree that there are other methods and short cuts that can be taken, especially when painting a simple Scout Car and you want the Scout doing a percentage of the work.

Heck I can do a fairly cool paint job in a couple of hours taking short cuts and using a few tricks, but I wouldn't recommend doing it.
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Re: Coffin Nail Racing - Car Photos

Post by Coffin Nail Racing »

whodathunkit wrote: Wed Jun 13, 2018 8:42 pm
Coffin Nail Racing wrote: Wed Jun 13, 2018 8:02 pm P.S, I forgot ... if the paints are compatible I generally wait 8 to 12 hours depending if I'm in a hurry or not. The paint won't be "cured" as "cured" and "dry" are to different things. Waiting "7 days" or until the paint is gassed off is something I'd do if I was going to rub it out with a Polish or wax it.
Thank's for the tips .. I think my problem with the compatible type paints cracking is from being in to much of a hurry to shoot the clear coat on.
That is also possible, but it still seems like a mild incompatiblity issue that might be tied to spraying it too soon. I'd spray you color on a test piece wait at least a day before testing the clear over the test color sample and see what you get.

Some clear coats have agents that the color does not and they can cause trouble on the color if put on too heavy even on well dried paint.

I'd suggest putting down a very lite first and second coat of clear with about 15 minutes between, then after an hour you can get a little heavier.
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Re: Coffin Nail Racing - Car Photos

Post by Speedster »

Folks, when I write something my intent is to never hurt anyone. It is simply my opinion and it is up to you to decide what you want to do. I hope I have done that.
I'm a Senior citizen and will turn 79 years of age in a few months. In my younger years I spent 13 years as an Autobody Repairman and Refinisher. In 1985 I fell in Love with the Pinewood Derby and it has been my year around hobby ever since. I have a Best track in my garage and it is never taken down. I have been working with the Boy Scouts, and now the Girl Scouts, for the past 33 years and have no intent to stop. Derbytalk has taught me a lot the past 6 years and continues to do so everyday.
Again, please realize what I write is simply my opinion. Nothing more.
I wish everyone the very Best.
Bill
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Re: Coffin Nail Racing - Car Photos

Post by Coffin Nail Racing »

Speedster wrote: Fri Jun 15, 2018 4:40 am Folks, when I write something my intent is to never hurt anyone. It is simply my opinion and it is up to you to decide what you want to do. I hope I have done that.
I'm a Senior citizen and will turn 79 years of age in a few months. In my younger years I spent 13 years as an Autobody Repairman and Refinisher. In 1985 I fell in Love with the Pinewood Derby and it has been my year around hobby ever since. I have a Best track in my garage and it is never taken down. I have been working with the Boy Scouts, and now the Girl Scouts, for the past 33 years and have no intent to stop. Derbytalk has taught me a lot the past 6 years and continues to do so everyday.
Again, please realize what I write is simply my opinion. Nothing more.
I wish everyone the very Best.
Bill
Speedster, I know your intent was to inform, not to hurt. Lord knows there's a million ways to paint a car (well a pinewood car at least). And I'm not in anyway saying anyone is wrong.

As you've been an Auto Refinisher you know the limitations of Spray Cans as I do, I was only suggesting that any level of paint job can be achieved depending on the method, time and of course the skill level of the Scout or Adult. There's nothing wrong with the method you describe, especially for the short attention span of non-professional painters.

After all, who's going to use Automotive Quality $600 a quart Ferrari Red on a PineCar 😂😂😂
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Re: Coffin Nail Racing - Car Photos

Post by Speedster »

Since the cost of paint was brought up, I'd like to add something a lot of Folks might not know. Automotive Basecoat colors can be purchased in a Rattle Can. Stores servicing Body Shops Will sell you any color plus the cost of the can. The cost of colors vary. The ones I have purchased cost around $18.00. The beauty of Basecost is it dries very quickly and since they are not designed to shine 2 coats should give you the color. You do not sand or touch the base coat. Clearcoat is then applied.
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Re: Coffin Nail Racing - Car Photos

Post by Coffin Nail Racing »

Speedster wrote: Sat Jun 16, 2018 12:30 pm Since the cost of paint was brought up, I'd like to add something a lot of Folks might not know. Automotive Basecoat colors can be purchased in a Rattle Can. Stores servicing Body Shops Will sell you any color plus the cost of the can. The cost of colors vary. The ones I have purchased cost around $18.00. The beauty of Basecost is it dries very quickly and since they are not designed to shine 2 coats should give you the color. You do not sand or touch the base coat. Clearcoat is then applied.
That's actually a darn good tip !! and while they are there they can get the tack rag, scotch bright pads , vinyl line tape (if interested in that) and get solid advice on what type of Rattle Can clear will work best with the base selected an likely get that there too .. One stop shopping :D

I'm sure Speedster will agree, Paint systems and their chemistry keep evolving and not everything works with everything else, so expert Automotive Paint Shop advice is never a bad idea.

I know there is a two part catalyzed Clear in a spray can that's pretty amazing, but has a short use time once mixed ... and it's hell on the lungs, so for $30 bucks or so a respirator isn't a bad idea either.
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Coffin Nail Racing - Car Photos

Post by whodathunkit »

Hi George!

Thank's for the tips on the spray paint nozzles!

When I asked the question.
When I'm finished painting with a particular paint type or color.. Should I turn the rattle can or can's up side down to spray out the excess paint
so that I won't waste paint by letting the paint dry out clogging up the spray nozzles .. before my next spray paint projects.

I was hoping that you would touch on spray cans with the different nozzle types.
like the older cap stem type - (can valve no stem) to spray paint it had to be held up right and cleaned out by spraying upside down.

And the newer nozzle type with no stem on cap - ( can valve has stem) that seems no matter how you hold spray can paint is always sprayed out. paint..
Vertical Horizontal Any Angle.

As for the paint cracking problem.. like you say it's just a race car I was in a hurry to get it painted!
So the paint was not cured and the clear coat pulled on the paint as it dried.
What type of automobile can be spelled the same forwards & backwards?
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Re: Coffin Nail Racing - Car Photos

Post by Coffin Nail Racing »

whodathunkit wrote: Mon Jun 18, 2018 9:46 pm Hi George!

Thank's for the tips on the spray paint nozzles!

When I asked the question.
When I'm finished painting with a particular paint type or color.. Should I turn the rattle can or can's up side down to spray out the excess paint
so that I won't waste paint by letting the paint dry out clogging up the spray nozzles .. before my next spray paint projects.

I was hoping that you would touch on spray cans with the different nozzle types.
like the older cap stem type - (can valve no stem) to spray paint it had to be held up right and cleaned out by spraying upside down.

And the newer nozzle type with no stem on cap - ( can valve has stem) that seems no matter how you hold spray can paint is always sprayed out. paint..
Vertical Horizontal Any Angle.

As for the paint cracking problem.. like you say it's just a race car I was in a hurry to get it painted!
So the paint was not cured and the clear coat pulled on the paint as it dried.

Some paint cans are designed to spray upside down (I have a primer like that) regardless of the tip type they use. Personally I'm still in the habit of turning cans upside down and clearing the tip and wiping it.

Some people say it's a waste of paint and/or propellant and I've heard there are cans of cleaning fluid for the purpose of cleaning tips. I've soaked many tips in "Goof Off" and then spray paint through to clear it before use. But that doesn't work for all Paint types.

Finally, nozzle or tip types are so plentiful it would be possible to do an hour video on just that.
But if you want to learn more tips and tricks about tips and nozzles ArtPrimo.com does a fair number of videos on the subject .. site is about Graffiti and such, but there's good info to be had if you dig around.
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Re: Coffin Nail Racing - Car Photos

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Re: Coffin Nail Racing - Car Photos

Post by whodathunkit »

Looken good there George!

Once more thanks for tips on the nozzles.
Whoda


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What type of automobile can be spelled the same forwards & backwards?
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