Derby Talk

Have a very small crack that will be disastrous if it decides to let go. I'm dubious in regard to using this approach but it's either that or a new rebuild. Found this product in the Hyper Link below with a choice of different sized applicator "micro tips". Anyone have a better product ? The applicator needs to be somewhat of a small hypodermic. It's drying time isn't important as time isn't an issue at this point. Thanks for any info guys.......stay safe.......RRR

https://www.starbond.com/super-fast-thin-ca-glue.html

My screwdriver car is held together with CA glue. I turned the handle from a piece of the original block, and attached a Phillips screwdriver blade cut from a real screwdriver. The front wheels are attached to a wedge cut from the original block, with a Phillips screw inserted into a hole drilled into the wedge. Then the tip of the screwdriver blade is attached to the screw with CA glue.

Anyway, it survived its races the year it was made, and it has survived decades of storage and occasional handling when I've displayed it. But this was metal on metal, secured with CA glue, not wood on wood.

Darin, I'm trying to figure out what rule it would violate. Is it "No sharp objects"?

Speedster wrote:Darin, I'm trying to figure out what rule it would violate. Is it "No sharp objects"?

Yeah, but he just said "screw it" !! Lol

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Speedster wrote: ↑Sun Mar 22, 2020 5:29 amDarin, I'm trying to figure out what rule it would violate. Is it "No sharp objects"?

With our current rules, the screwdriver car design violates the rule about using the original kit, plus adhesives, lubricants, weights, and decorations. The screwdriver blade and the screw are part of the structure, and not mere weights or decorations.

Our rules at the time were looser, and didn't prohibit the design.

Darin, I am truly shocked your rules have gone in the other direction. I am the inspector. If that car came to me and the wheelbase was 4 3/8", I would have passed it. Our height limit has gone from 2 1/2" to 6 1/2". Our scout shop sells lights, wheels that glow in the dark or glow under some kind of light. I thought the Nation was all about Design today. We have the Northwest District that has 2 Categories for Design. There now at the District race 4 for design instead of 2. I forgot what they call them. Maybe Regular and Super Regular.

I'm not concerned. You'll figure a way around it

Speedster wrote: ↑Sun Mar 22, 2020 4:56 pmDarin, I am truly shocked your rules have gone in the other direction.

Well, like most rules changes, this one was in response to a technique that was considered unfair. At the time, I voted to make the technique available to everyone at our workshops, but the majority decided to go with the rule that we've been using since then.

Speedster wrote: ↑Sun Mar 22, 2020 4:56 pmI am the inspector. If that car came to me and the wheelbase was 4 3/8", I would have passed it.

FWIW, we don't require the original wheelbase. We do have a "must fit the track" rule, and for that, we specify a maximum nose-to-rear-axle distance (among other things).

Speedster wrote: ↑Sun Mar 22, 2020 4:56 pmOur height limit has gone from 2 1/2" to 6 1/2".

Ours is still 5 1/2" (because we haven't replaced our old finish gate).

Speedster wrote: ↑Sun Mar 22, 2020 4:56 pmOur scout shop sells lights, wheels that glow in the dark or glow under some kind of light.

Lights are fine. A couple of my designs have had lights.

Painted wheels are fine ("decoration"), but replacing the wheels isn't ("from the original kit"). When a car comes in with BSA wheels or some other wheels that are different from those in our kits, we hand them a fresh set of our wheels and axles and have them replace their wheels before we register the car.