We have a local Hobby Lobby that carries Pinewood derby products. Included within these products there are uncut blocks. These blocks are made from different wood than the BSA blocks. Also, the slots are cut different, they seem to be more precise than the BSA slots.
My questions is there any way to detect one of those blocks than to the one that comes out of the BSA box? It seems to me when they are cut down and painted you really can't tell a difference, and does it make that much difference in the outcome of the race?
Just wanted to see what you guys think!
Pinewood Blocks
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gpraceman
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Re: Pinewood Blocks
The wheelbase can be an indicator, if the slots are visible. To me, a block is a block. However, if there is a restriction on wheelbase and a requirement to use the slots, then not all blocks can be used. The BSA blocks have about a 4-3/8" wheelbase. Other blocks can have a different wheelbase.
Last edited by gpraceman on Tue Feb 13, 2007 12:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Randy Lisano
Romans 5:8
Awana Grand Prix and Pinewood Derby racing - Where a child, an adult and a small block of wood combine for a lot of fun and memories.
Romans 5:8
Awana Grand Prix and Pinewood Derby racing - Where a child, an adult and a small block of wood combine for a lot of fun and memories.
Re: Pinewood Blocks
How different is the wood? Heavier or lighter?
In truth you are correct once shaped and painted detection would be impossible. However, is it a rules violation? What real advantage is there? Straight slots? You can manage that on your own with a tri square and two hack saw blades. Or better yet drill holes with the pro body tool.
My point. What lesson is being learned or taught?
In truth you are correct once shaped and painted detection would be impossible. However, is it a rules violation? What real advantage is there? Straight slots? You can manage that on your own with a tri square and two hack saw blades. Or better yet drill holes with the pro body tool.
My point. What lesson is being learned or taught?
Re: Pinewood Blocks
I would have not problem with the use of non BSA blocks of wood, as long as the slots are in about the same spot.
Michael's in our area carries the same products that you are talking about.
I would be particular about the axles and wheels.
They should be BSA. I made sure that everyone in my Den understood this, but who knows if it was followed strictly.
Michael's in our area carries the same products that you are talking about.
I would be particular about the axles and wheels.
They should be BSA. I made sure that everyone in my Den understood this, but who knows if it was followed strictly.
Last edited by tmbnorm on Wed Feb 14, 2007 10:58 am, edited 1 time in total.
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BigDozer66
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Re: Pinewood Blocks
I wouldn't worry about where the block of wood came from.
The wheels and axles are the important parts from 'the kit'.
We had 2 or 3 show up last year with the Hobby Lobby Pinecar wheels and axles and they were shocked when they were told to replace them.
If it is specified that the slots have to be used then you will have to cut a couple in there but that would be easy to do.
Lynn
The wheels and axles are the important parts from 'the kit'.
We had 2 or 3 show up last year with the Hobby Lobby Pinecar wheels and axles and they were shocked when they were told to replace them.
If it is specified that the slots have to be used then you will have to cut a couple in there but that would be easy to do.
Lynn
"one Nation under God, indivisible, with liberty and justice for all."
Cubmaster and AWANA Game Director
Cubmaster and AWANA Game Director
Re: Pinewood Blocks
It is different kind of wood, not sure what kind. I think that is is a little of advantage if you are not sure how to redo your axle slots. I used these(blocks)in open class and it seemed that they did very well. I think its more of a time saver than anything.
Re: Pinewood Blocks
It is probably also a cost savings. We purchase blocks from MaxV for $1.45 a block for testing. Get 2 cars out of each block. The savings adds up when building lots of cars.
We always use a real BSA block for the car we run. I really don't think there is any real advantage but our rules are clear.
We always use a real BSA block for the car we run. I really don't think there is any real advantage but our rules are clear.
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BigDozer66
- Master Pine Head
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- Location: Lufkin, Texas USA
Re: Pinewood Blocks
I always get 2 cars out of each 'Official BSA" block and then all I have to get is the BSA wheels and axles.
My son and I always build 2 cars (1 for him and 1 for me) at the same time. We usually have a spare in the tool box in case someone picks his up and drops it.
I know the rules say to leave the cars alone but there is always a chance that someone will disobey and do it anyway.
Lynn
My son and I always build 2 cars (1 for him and 1 for me) at the same time. We usually have a spare in the tool box in case someone picks his up and drops it.
I know the rules say to leave the cars alone but there is always a chance that someone will disobey and do it anyway.
Lynn
"one Nation under God, indivisible, with liberty and justice for all."
Cubmaster and AWANA Game Director
Cubmaster and AWANA Game Director
Re: Pinewood Blocks
I assume these are 'PineCar' brand kits. The wood looks like Poplar, but since it is all imported, it is probably an Asian wood related to Poplar.It is different kind of wood, not sure what kind.
Kind of odd that 'Pine'Car doesn't use pine for their kits.
Re: Pinewood Blocks
The only real advantage switching blocks would be if someone went to a hardwood for the block. Pine for pine shouldn't be an issue.
And really, would you want someone dq'd if all they did was use the top of their bsa block and cut new slots in the exact same location as there were prior in the bottom (trying to fix bad ones)?
We use the bottoms for my son's cars and the tops and MaxV's blocks for the parent cars and prototypes.
And really, would you want someone dq'd if all they did was use the top of their bsa block and cut new slots in the exact same location as there were prior in the bottom (trying to fix bad ones)?
We use the bottoms for my son's cars and the tops and MaxV's blocks for the parent cars and prototypes.
Re: Pinewood Blocks
MaxV what type of wood are your blocks? I have noticed that they are a lot harder then WinDerby blocks.
Re: Pinewood Blocks
When we had some races around the shop with grown men first we used the pine pro kits, then next time some pine car kits and then some Bsa kits, all were used at different times with a three month period and some of the guys had never even heard of pinecar racing much less done it...
In working with the pine pro wood it seemed very soft and very easy to work with (it seems to be a hardwood type wood which I believe is popular)...
Then came the pinecars which were a simular type wood as the pine pros but had different dimensions and was'nt quiet as easy to work with as the pine pro wood...
Then when the bsa kits were used most every one seen a big difference in weight and a big difference when they started working with the wood...
The guys had many more chips around the slots when inserting axles and noticed a big weight difference in many of the bsa blocks...
Over all the width of the pine pro block was 1 5/8" wide with a shorter wheel base than the pine car and bsa block...
Both the bsa and pinecar block both have 1 3/4 wide width with the same wheel base...
I think the advantage in useing the pine pro or pinecar block is it seems to be more consistingly lighter in weight and the possibility of busting out the slots are less likely with the popular wood because the grain of the wood is more horizontal where as the bsa block seems to always be a more diagonal grain and to me is harder to get it balanced from side to side far as weight ...
Out of the three types I have listed here the bsa kit seems to be the hardest to prepair far as axles, wood working and wheels and it seems they get more and more each year...
The pine car kits are generally a easy kit to work with but it has a lot of pick and choose what to use far as getting good wheels and axles...
The pine pro kits are very simple and easy to prep for a race ...
The wheels and axles are to some extent race ready with just maybe a light sanding on the wheels and a little ridge at the head of the axle...
In working with the pine pro wood it seemed very soft and very easy to work with (it seems to be a hardwood type wood which I believe is popular)...
Then came the pinecars which were a simular type wood as the pine pros but had different dimensions and was'nt quiet as easy to work with as the pine pro wood...
Then when the bsa kits were used most every one seen a big difference in weight and a big difference when they started working with the wood...
The guys had many more chips around the slots when inserting axles and noticed a big weight difference in many of the bsa blocks...
Over all the width of the pine pro block was 1 5/8" wide with a shorter wheel base than the pine car and bsa block...
Both the bsa and pinecar block both have 1 3/4 wide width with the same wheel base...
I think the advantage in useing the pine pro or pinecar block is it seems to be more consistingly lighter in weight and the possibility of busting out the slots are less likely with the popular wood because the grain of the wood is more horizontal where as the bsa block seems to always be a more diagonal grain and to me is harder to get it balanced from side to side far as weight ...
Out of the three types I have listed here the bsa kit seems to be the hardest to prepair far as axles, wood working and wheels and it seems they get more and more each year...
The pine car kits are generally a easy kit to work with but it has a lot of pick and choose what to use far as getting good wheels and axles...
The pine pro kits are very simple and easy to prep for a race ...
The wheels and axles are to some extent race ready with just maybe a light sanding on the wheels and a little ridge at the head of the axle...
Re: Pinewood Blocks
Our rules only stipulate that the portion of the car into which the axles insert is genuine Pine.
All else is open for interpretation... pre-cut bodies are specified as legal so long as sufficient mods are made to distinguish the car in some way.
Truth is, we pay very, very little attention to the body material as we can't enforce the "axle pine" and all else is legal.
About all we can do is ask for Scouts honor and inspect the devil outta the wheels and axles (which we did), look for sticky or magnetic noses, etc.
-Terry
All else is open for interpretation... pre-cut bodies are specified as legal so long as sufficient mods are made to distinguish the car in some way.
Truth is, we pay very, very little attention to the body material as we can't enforce the "axle pine" and all else is legal.
About all we can do is ask for Scouts honor and inspect the devil outta the wheels and axles (which we did), look for sticky or magnetic noses, etc.
-Terry
"I dunno..." - Uncle Eddie, Christmas Vacation
