We have found lots of help with the car designs but very little information about the start ramp.
Thanks Roy Shafer
Cubmaster Pack 3
First off: welcome to Derby Talk!
I have never found any plans for the starting ramp for a Cubmobile Race. Some of this may be due to the fact that everyone seems to have a different design need for their ramp. An example of this is that two different locations we were looking at using this last Summer would have needed ramps with different heights; a flat parking lot would have required a taller ramp while the inclined road would have required a shorter ramp. (Unfortunately we never did have the race…)
While looking for information on start ramps we found that many boys are loosing control of their Cubmobiles when they are leaving the ramp due to the sometimes sharp transition angle from the ramp to the road. One of our Den Leader’s designed a ramp that would not have this problem – but it also called for 10 full sized sheets of plywood! He looked on some skateboard web sites for design ideas since who else would have some smoothly curved ramps? Now if he could just accomplish the same thing with four sheets of plywood at the most; we may be in business.
For a look at what appears to be a very easy and well designed starting gate, look at KLenort’s post: Anyone else done a Cubmobile Race? ( http://derbytalk.com/viewtopic.php?t=298 ) as he shows and explains this well. If and when we build a Cubmobile Ramp we will use this same basic design.
Da Graphite Kid
I wish I would have wrote down the specs of the ramp that the pack yses for our kids race.
But I do remember some info.
They used angle iron to make the ramp, it was a 45% angle
However, the top platform where the cubmobiles were at before the lever was pulled to release them was at a 15% angle.
The ramp was aproximately 3 to 3.5 feet tall. The platform was just long enough to hold the cubmobile and another additional 6 inches Id say.
I will do a drawing and post a linke for you to get a idea of what it looked like.
Perhaps it will help some.
But I hope they will help or give better concept or idea of a ramp.
Thre are 4 pictures in all, 3 on this link and on website, click on last remaining pic to see. double click picture to see bigure pic.
http://home.insightbb.com/~ryan.johnson ... ip-30.html
It will be made in two sections that will fasten together. Each lane will be made seperately. It will be 4 feet tall, 10 feet wide, enough that the racers/volunteers can walk up the middle, and a safe margin from the sides. Then from the bottom rear corner out toward the end of the ramp, it will be 8 feet for the main angle of the ramp, then add 2 more feet to lessen the angle for the transition to the track surface. I wish I could display the drawing for you to explain it better. I will add the starting device, deck surface, and side rails, and any other minor things. I was also thinking of adding wheels to help with movement, and some trailer jacks to make it possible to adjust the ramp for the track surface, and to prevent the ramp from rolling away.
Opinions, suggestions, complaints? I'd like to have the plans to the fabricator by the end of this week.
Is this like to 5 foot sections ?
Everything sounds fine buy what you described.
I'm not sure I would go more than 4 foot wide on each section or longer than 6 feet on the deck in length.
I cant recall if you said all wood or not, but angle iron works well for taking down and putting in back up. However, lag bolts for the wood work fine for assemble.
Dont nessessarily need metal frame.
Just use thick enough wood for the ramp, so no warping can happen. I recommend treated lumber.
It will however, no matter would be better than some of the pictures I have seen out there, people using back of pick up truck or milk crates.
If you build the 7 feet section like a wood truss then the 3 foot section could be built using a ripped down 2x10 for support and then attached to the (2) 7 foot sections using some kind of latching hardware. Also you might want to look into using M.D.O. plywood for the decking. The M.D.O. plywood takes paint very well and can last for a long time even in weathered conditions. We specify this on some of the retail projects we have done. I know of at least 6 or 7 retail centers that have the original plywood on them and they have been built for about 20 years.
However- Keep in mind of lifting those, 40 - 60 pound Cubmobile's onto the ramp.
And if you are going to have the kids enter onto the ramp from the side, rear or walk up the front of the ramp to get into the Cubmobile.
Our pack, they walk up the front, even tho its 3 1/2 feet high.
The volunteers and parents help with putting the Cubmobile on the ramp.
Sorry, pardon my ignorance, but what does MDO stand for. Would one of the local lumber stores know what it is by MDO?
This plywood has applications for signage (pre-primed available), marine, bus bench, outdoor seating (bleachers) and any other interior/exterior application where a smooth surface is required.
MDO Plywood is produced with a resin-treated fiber overlay which is generally smooth and opaque. This allows for rapid, even paint and coating applications.
MDO Plywood is manufactured with 100% waterproof adhesives and has an inner ply construction of C grade veneers and B grade or better face and back veneers.
here is 2 links
http://home.insightbb.com/~ryan.johnson ... 19144.html
one of a drawn ramp, the other a picture of our ramp we use.
http://home.insightbb.com/~ryan.johnson ... 19145.html