Derby Magic Track

Commercial tracks.
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gpraceman
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Derby Magic Track

Post by gpraceman »

From one of my software customers I recently found out about another track manufacturer, Derby Magic. Anyone have one of these tracks? If so, please give a review.

Looks similar to the SuperTrack but with a center lane guide and aluminum support structure.

However, their start gate is a spring loaded closed design. As discussed before on Derby Talk, this gate design can cause timing variation since the gate opening is entirely dependent on the start gate operator. Cars can actually start moving but be restricted by the pins, if the gate is opened slow enough. A better design is one that is spring loaded closed and opened with a catch or latch.
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Re: Derby Magic Track

Post by PWD »

Do you have a link for Derby Magic? I would be interested in learning more about the track.
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Re: Derby Magic Track

Post by Go Bubba Go »

Click on the words "Derby Magic" in Randy's post above.

If for some reason that doesn't work, the address is:

www.derbymagic.com
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Re: Derby Magic Track

Post by pwdarchitect »

Looks like an interting track although I think there are some flaws with the design in addition to what Randy as said.
1. The screws that hold the tracks sections together are in the sections where the wheels will be rolling so if a person fails to tighten the screws down enough the the wheels possibly will be hitting each screw as the car travels down the length of the track. Disasterous for some cars.
2. The 1"x1" aluminum angles that holds the Top of the track seems flimsy IMO. Would the starting mechanism jolt the cars once it snaps open with the support system? Since the Aluminum angles are utilized as the support system there would be no way to "hang" a weight from it to insure that the track is held firm in it's location. I could just see a someone being able to knock the track over very easily with having no bulk to the supports.
3. The stopping section lifts the cars from the wheels. I have seem cars go so fast that they ramp up and off the end of the track when the stopping section is like this.
4. How does this track integrate with the current available timing systems out there? Fast Track timing systems has a bar that extends unter the track which would then put a upward slope toward the end of the track unless the whole track was supported to that thickness.

These are just some of my opinions after looking at the track system.

Jim
Last edited by pwdarchitect on Tue Jan 23, 2007 10:00 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Cory
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Re: Derby Magic Track

Post by Cory »

pwdarchitect wrote:Would the starting mechanism jolt the cars once it snaps open with the support system?
After looking closely at the pics in the assembly instructions, I agree with Randy's comment above. I think it is a "normally closed" start gate -- it snaps shut instead of snapping open. Having dealt with both types, I don't like this feature.
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Re: Derby Magic Track

Post by hwsjr »

Has anyone here actually used one of these tracks?
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Re: Derby Magic Track

Post by Bulldog »

hwsjr wrote:Has anyone here actually used one of these tracks?
The track that our district's host pack will be using this year appears to be either one of these or the "supertimer" tracks. The photos i have seen of it are not detailed enough for me to make the distinction. We'll see next weekend. If it is one of these, I'll give you my review.

To be honest, I don't think I like either one of them.

Although this track does appear to be a relatively low cost option for a financially strapped pack- I just have to wonder if the savings are worth it.
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Re: Derby Magic Track

Post by Mr. Slick »

Shopping for a four lane track. . . pack asks for advice . . .
price comparison study:

Derby Magic 4 lane 42ft = 659 + 50 shipping = 709

BestTrack 3 lane 42ft = 667 + 75 shipping = 742


BestTrack 4 lane 42ft = 885 + 85 shipping = 970

BetaCraft 4 lane 42ft = 465 + ~30 shipping = 495 + FRAME


Piantedosi 3 lane 40ft = 750 + ~100 shipping = 850

Piantedosi 4 lane 40ft = 950 + ~100 shipping = 1050

I cringed when I saw the screws in the wheel tracking areas. on the Derby Magic track. Having several years experiance with people setting up/taking down the aluminum track, I doubt it would last more than a couple of races before the assembly/disassembly process would leave permanent scratches/bumps in the track.

I recommended that unless they have someone with carpentry skills to build a box frame for the BetaCraft track that they go for a BestTrack 3 lane for close to the same price as a four lane DerbyMagic .

The attachment of the timer systems is MUCH easier for the other tracks since the entire track is elevated. It looks like the DerbyMagic track is flexable hence requiring a frame the same as the Aluminum BetaCraft tracks, in order to elevate the track to put the timer sensors under the track without a hump.
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Re: Derby Magic Track

Post by John Shreffler »

The DerbyMagic track is light weight, and in most cases not strong enough to mount timers directly to it. I have made a special version of my timer specifically for this track.
See http://www.newdirections.ws/DerbyMagic.html
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Re: Derby Magic Track

Post by TAL »

Mr. Slick wrote:Shopping for a four lane track. . . pack asks for advice . . .
price comparison study:

Derby Magic 4 lane 42ft = 659 + 50 shipping = 709

BestTrack 3 lane 42ft = 667 + 75 shipping = 742


BestTrack 4 lane 42ft = 885 + 85 shipping = 970

BetaCraft 4 lane 42ft = 465 + ~30 shipping = 495 + FRAME


Piantedosi 3 lane 40ft = 750 + ~100 shipping = 850

Piantedosi 4 lane 40ft = 950 + ~100 shipping = 1050
The shipping cost for the Painteosi could be as low as $75.00 for the 3 lane 40', and as low as $89.00 for the 4 lane 40'...
It's all according to your location and zoneing for what the shipping cost could be...

But, for the extra cost I do think I would go aluminum...
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Re: Derby Magic Track

Post by Spawn »

I'm seriously looking at the Derby Magic over the BestTrack. I like the portability aspect with Derby Magic being so light. Our group will be going with a 3 lane track (still undecided on length of 35ft, or 42ft), and I think the portability aspect is somewhat more critical to us. Our current wood track is assembled from the top surface, similar to the Derby Magic, so I don't think we're gaining/losing anything there. There is a possibility of figuring out an alternative assembly method, which may eliminate having to assemble it with screws from the wheel contact area. If I do end up managing to figure that out, then I would somehow fill the countersunk screw holes from the manufacturer. Also, the aspect of the track being able to being stored completely flat as opposed to having a pre-formed curve is very enticing. I realize that the Piantedosi also stores flat, but I'm not sure that the weight of the Piantedosi is much better overall. I've read several posts about groups having made carrying cases for their aluminum tracks, and they end up being quite heavy (~200lbs!).

Does anyone have any idea on what would be a good filler for countersunk holes in PVC? I was thinking that PVC cement (as they are only 4-40 screws, so not very large holes) but I'm not sure how level it would cure. Any other thoughts out there?
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Re: Derby Magic Track

Post by gpraceman »

Spawn wrote:I've read several posts about groups having made carrying cases for their aluminum tracks, and they end up being quite heavy (~200lbs!).
IMO, weight is a pretty minor issue. Our Awana 40ft Piantedosi track in its crate can be loaded in/out of our van by me and my 17 year old (nearly) daughter. We use a mover's dolly to actually roll it around, so we don't have to carry it far.
Spawn wrote:Does anyone have any idea on what would be a good filler for countersunk holes in PVC? I was thinking that PVC cement (as they are only 4-40 screws, so not very large holes) but I'm not sure how level it would cure. Any other thoughts out there?
I don't know about trying to patch those holes. Maybe the manufacturer can send you a sample of the track material and you can experiment before trying it on a real track (and likely voiding the warranty).
Randy Lisano
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Re: Derby Magic Track

Post by John Shreffler »

PVC cement, AKA MIBK, used to join pipes together does not seem to be the right stuff here. It is very volatile, and loses most of its mass in curing. I would suggest plaster of paris, which would cure in a minute, and could be flicked aside when disassembling the track.

You might also sidestep the screw situation by just getting the track sections, and doing your own support system. The bottom side of the straddle guides perfectly fit standard 1x2 wood, and force the lanes into perfect lateral alignment. I have samples of the track here, and can vouch for the smoothness and quality. If I were to build a track with this surface, I would exploit the 1x2 fit, and use double sided foam tape to secure the track down for the few hours the typical derby lasts.
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Re: Derby Magic Track

Post by gpraceman »

John Shreffler wrote:You might also sidestep the screw situation by just getting the track sections, and doing your own support system. The bottom side of the straddle guides perfectly fit standard 1x2 wood, and force the lanes into perfect lateral alignment. I have samples of the track here, and can vouch for the smoothness and quality. If I were to build a track with this surface, I would exploit the 1x2 fit, and use double sided foam tape to secure the track down for the few hours the typical derby lasts.
I wonder why the manufacturer didn't design the joining plate so the screws could be in the middle of the lane guide. It seems that bent sheet metal or even a molded piece would do the trick.

I tried to contact the manufacturer, through their website, and invited them to jump into the discussion on their track, but they obviously have not taken me up on that yet. Have we scared them off nit-picking their design? Hopefully not. Any new product does come under some close scrutiny with us Pineheads.
Randy Lisano
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Re: Derby Magic Track

Post by Spawn »

John Shreffler wrote:If I were to build a track with this surface, I would exploit the 1x2 fit, and use double sided foam tape to secure the track down for the few hours the typical derby lasts.
What about the possibility of using 1x2 and then putting screws through the guide rail? This would thereby eliminate any effect of wheels running over screw heads, and I can't imagine anything on the cars that would make contact with screw heads in the guide rail.
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