- Stan Pope
- Pine Head Legend
- Posts: 6856
- Joined: Sat Jul 05, 2003 7:01 pm
- Location: Morton, Illinois
But sometimes he says, "Ya got enough extra wood in that car to build a sailboat!"
OTOH, I don't tell everyone that ... just some of those who are trying for an ultra-light body.
"If it's not for the boys, it's for the birds!"
No.Speedster wrote:LightninBoy, you have put me back to Square One. I thought 1 1/2 ounces was the preferred weight behind the rear axle for a stock wheelbase car. There is a 2 ounce block available. Did you ever use it?
I don't like the size dimensions of the 2 ounce block. The bars from MaxV give me more flexibility. And the cubes give me the most flexibility.Is there any advantage/disadvantage of dealing with all those individual 1/4" cubes if your intent is to use 2 ounces?
Yes.Do you shift the wheelbase if allowed?
There's not much to show that I haven't already described. I do two rows of 6 behind the axle, one row of 6 in front, and the rest are placed in the front weight pocket as dictated by tuning runs on the track.Is a ladder chassis the absolute best design for a car if speed is your only goal?Ladder or balsa fill (or combo) is the best, particularly if you are also adding the full X3 style fenders. I like doing balsa fills for scout cars as it creates a very robust car.
However if this is what your looking to do for your car.. maybe try using some Rc airplane hinge tape or some CA glue on type airplane hinges.
To give you the access needed under your top cover plate.