The Badder Ladder to make them Madder

Secrets, tips, tools, design considerations, materials, the "science" behind it all, and other topics related to building the cars and semi-trucks.
Post Reply
mclewis_13
Journeyman
Journeyman
Posts: 32
Joined: Tue Sep 10, 2019 6:08 am
Location: Jacksonville, FL

The Badder Ladder to make them Madder

Post by mclewis_13 » Tue Apr 06, 2021 6:10 am

OK, big rig dream complete. Now to really show these folks what speed is. I want to build a 3/8" Ladder car.

Image

Something similar to the above, but I want to do all the work. I want to again journal my journey from start to finish.

I have access to tools, but I really don't know where to start. I have some ideas, and would love your input.

1. Take AWANA block and make as many 3/8" cut as I can using a band saw. That way if (more actually when) I screw up I will have another body to work on.
2. Coat the outside in a CA glue.
3. Draw the areas that I want to remove.
4. Drill a hole in the area for removal.
5. Use a jigsaw to cut the holes.

Thought?

Thanks!



Speedster
Pine Head Legend
Pine Head Legend
Posts: 1949
Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:48 pm
Location: Toledo, Ohio

Re: The Badder Ladder to make them Madder

Post by Speedster » Tue Apr 06, 2021 5:27 pm

OK, let's talk for a minute.
You want to show folks what speed is. You are now deep into Physics. You want to build a 3/8" ladder car. Why? Do you think you can make a 3/8" ladder car go faster then a 1/4" solid car? You will need to cover all the openings with packing tape or with the covers that Derby Evolution supplies with some of their models or with balsa wood. I don't know what COM you want but you do not want to go to far. I'm sure you are going to rail ride and you need some weight on the dfw to keep it on the rail. How much weight do you need on the dfw? I don't know. That's why I have a track and timer and that will give me my answer. Others on Derbytalk might give you an idea with success they have had. If you have 3 identical scales you can set the car up as you choose. Now we can talk about what is going to give you your speed. The wheels and axles. I'm going to guess you will use this car for an Awana race so you can't do much with the wheels. I would buy as many wheels as possible and check them all on a runout gage. Choose the 3 best. If you don't have a runout gage we can talk about that later.

All cars will drift one way or the other. The challenge is to keep both rear wheels from touching the rail. Narrowing the block 1/16" behind the Dfw is a good start.
Increasing the distance on the clearance on the appropriate rear wheel will sometime solve the problem.

Best wishes on your build.



Loud2ns
Pine Head
Pine Head
Posts: 58
Joined: Thu Mar 15, 2018 7:50 pm
Location: Hudsonville, Michigan

Re: The Badder Ladder to make them Madder

Post by Loud2ns » Wed Apr 07, 2021 4:44 am


mclewis_13 wrote:OK, big rig dream complete. Now to really show these folks what speed is. I want to build a 3/8" Ladder car.

Image

Something similar to the above, but I want to do all the work. I want to again journal my journey from start to finish.

I have access to tools, but I really don't know where to start. I have some ideas, and would love your input.

1. Take AWANA block and make as many 3/8" cut as I can using a band saw. That way if (more actually when) I screw up I will have another body to work on.
2. Coat the outside in a CA glue.
3. Draw the areas that I want to remove.
4. Drill a hole in the area for removal.
5. Use a jigsaw to cut the holes.

Thought?

Thanks!
1. If using 3/8 tungsten go with 3/8. If using 1/4 you need to go 1/4-5/16 slabs.

2.this should be your last step

3.just copy the picture you posted. Leave ¼" for your axle spars.

4 +5. Sounds good. You'll need a skin to go over the weight pocket or you can skin the whole top, but like speedster said all voids need to be covered by something....even if it's tape.

If your rules allow for modified wheelbase you should leave ½" behind the rear axle spar for enough rear weight.


Like speedster said....wheels and axles. The wheel quality took more of a hit when they switched suppliers a couple years ago. The axles are rougher than before and require more work to get nice. The wheels have more runout, so you'll want to find a way to true them up. The worst thing is that the inner hubs are atrocious. They need to be squared up at a minimum(prefer to cone them).

I can help with more weighting input if I know what kind of track and what condition it's in.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk




Speedster
Pine Head Legend
Pine Head Legend
Posts: 1949
Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:48 pm
Location: Toledo, Ohio

Re: The Badder Ladder to make them Madder

Post by Speedster » Thu Apr 08, 2021 2:35 pm

They have a 4 lane aluminum Freedom track, Micro Wizard K 2 timer and the best software in the world. My understanding is everything is new.



mclewis_13
Journeyman
Journeyman
Posts: 32
Joined: Tue Sep 10, 2019 6:08 am
Location: Jacksonville, FL

Re: The Badder Ladder to make them Madder

Post by mclewis_13 » Thu Apr 08, 2021 5:55 pm

Speedster is correct. That is our setup. Only been run on once.



Loud2ns
Pine Head
Pine Head
Posts: 58
Joined: Thu Mar 15, 2018 7:50 pm
Location: Hudsonville, Michigan

Re: The Badder Ladder to make them Madder

Post by Loud2ns » Thu Apr 08, 2021 7:41 pm

mclewis_13 wrote:Speedster is correct. That is our setup. Only been run on once.
What kind of weights?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk




Eagle
Master Pine Head
Master Pine Head
Posts: 157
Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2018 5:03 pm
Location: Fresno, CA

Re: The Badder Ladder to make them Madder

Post by Eagle » Thu Apr 08, 2021 10:16 pm

Sounds like Speedster and Loud2ns have given you some great info. I look forward to seeing your build progress here in the thread.

Only thing I would add is, if you have access to a table saw, I would use that to cut you 1/4" to 3/8" thick block. Otherwise I hope you have a belt sander that you are super familiar with.

If using a tablesaw it is best to cut so that the block is between the blade and the rail. This way you are not squeezing a thin piece of wood in there. This will not only be safer to do the cut - it greatly reduces the risk of a kick back.

As to the jig saw. I would avoid that. A jig saw, at least any I've used, will break a thin block. You would be far better off with a coping saw, scroll saw, or a Dremel.

I like balsa inserts, but a true ladder car ([no advertising for this vendor] style) has balsa bars and a covering. My girls and I have done our first. I hope to have them done for http://www.TheWestCoastGrandPrix.com IF not, then http://mid-americaderby.com



Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 23 guests