Lubrication & Break-In Procedure

Secrets, tips, tools, design considerations, materials, the "science" behind it all, and other topics related to building the cars and semi-trucks.
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FatSebastian
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Re: Lubrication & Break-In Procedure

Post by FatSebastian »

Ickabod wrote:Yeah, i read that thread and wasn't sure based on the description if the ones on Amazon are the same. Just trying to have a picture to go with your description.
Sorry for any confusion. When I said "here's a dedicated thread that addresses the question", I meant that I updated the thread in response to your query, including a picture.

The cleaners you pointed out on Amazon did not appear to be JUMBO ("extra fluffy"). With B.J. Long's, look for a "pink" label.
Kindintentions
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Re: Lubrication & Break-In Procedure

Post by Kindintentions »

Ran across this thread from a while back when trying to determine the best break-in procedure for PWD cars, but it is a few years old so I was wondering if anyone out there had any additional thoughts on breaking in the lube on the cars. For instance do you run on a test board X amount of times, do you hand spin the wheels X amount of times, or some other method.

Thanks.
Speedster
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Re: Lubrication & Break-In Procedure

Post by Speedster »

My opinion following is not directed to Kindintentions. It is directed to all beginners. My working the Pit last Saturday is what prompted me to write this.

I like Maximum Velocity's method. I do it before the wheels are installed but it would work that way too.
Fill the bore, put the axle in, tilt th wheel a bit from horizontal, finger spin it 10 times. Do this 3 times for each wheel.
I have never used Maximum Velocity's graphite to burnish wheels and in fact never burnished wheels.

I recommend the very 1st thing a scout does is read the rules very carefully. Reading much of the info in the different forums most scouts can't do legally.
I suspect most scouts are not allowed to groove an axle. The BSA nail is not very good. Buy regulation nails from Maximum Velocity where they have been professionally done. Buy #8 Preferred wheels, or some of the other Preferred numbers, and buy 4 sets so you have enough for 5 years if running 3 wheelers.

Buy Troy Thorne's 2013 Edition of "Build a Winning Pinewood Derby Car". Study it and then ask questions if you have any. You can get it from Fox Chapel publishing. The point I'd like to make is if you are losing races by 1/2 a car length it doesn't matter what graphite you are using for burnishing. Build a car you can work on. A slim wedge is probably the best design. If you are using different shapes of tungsten then a car shaped like a Hershey bar is the best shape you can have.

Please remember this car belongs to the scout but you can help your scout make it go Fast.
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