Vitamin K builds a Track! (slowly)
Re: Vitamin K builds a Track! (slowly)
Checking in on your progress.
Re: Vitamin K builds a Track! (slowly)
Last winter I had intentions of building a 2 lane test track when I came across an Ebay seller liquidating track sections used to build BSA tracks.
I saw the price creeping down and finally pulled the trigger on 2 lanes worth. A few months later after moving them around the garage a time or two I opened them up and began planning how to put them together. Decided if I was going to go to the effort I should build a 3 or 4 lane track. Contacted the Ebay seller to find out they were all gone. Dang!
That's my luck...so back to the original 2 lane track. I contemplated how I was going to build a better mousetrap and scoured the internet on tracks. I found this site and followed your progress still working out how best to put yours together but I didn't want a wood frame. The heat and humidity here in TX would warp the frame in no time unless climate controlled and even then everything wood, would have to be sealed very well.
I saw a suggestion about using PVC boards and went to Lowes to see what they had. I discovered how I am going to build my track! I figured I would share my finding so if you aren't too far along you might be interested in how I plan to proceed. I found 4 x 8 sheets of PVC lattice pannels that I plan to cut into 9 inch x 8 ft "boards" to mount the aluminum on and where it all came together (in theory for now) is they also have an edge piece that covers the outside edge ...think a tongue and groove 1 x 2 edging. So by overlapping the edging over the butt ends of the lattice it will act like the dowel pins used on the aluminum track pieces. I will rivet or screw the edge pieces onto my lattice boards and butt the edge pieces together with a pull together latch on each side of the joint.
Trying things out in the isle with a Lowes helper there is plenty of flex so the curve will be like the micro wizard track. It might take some oblong holes in the curve section so when dismantled it will lay flat. That will have to be tried and tinkered with. The support stands will be constructed similar to the Micro Wizard uprights either PVC boards or aluminum....not sure about that part yet. It will probably need the weight system like a MW track too.
I hope this epiphany will help with your build. Let me know what you think. I appreciate yours and welcome other's comments as well.
Scott
I saw the price creeping down and finally pulled the trigger on 2 lanes worth. A few months later after moving them around the garage a time or two I opened them up and began planning how to put them together. Decided if I was going to go to the effort I should build a 3 or 4 lane track. Contacted the Ebay seller to find out they were all gone. Dang!
That's my luck...so back to the original 2 lane track. I contemplated how I was going to build a better mousetrap and scoured the internet on tracks. I found this site and followed your progress still working out how best to put yours together but I didn't want a wood frame. The heat and humidity here in TX would warp the frame in no time unless climate controlled and even then everything wood, would have to be sealed very well.
I saw a suggestion about using PVC boards and went to Lowes to see what they had. I discovered how I am going to build my track! I figured I would share my finding so if you aren't too far along you might be interested in how I plan to proceed. I found 4 x 8 sheets of PVC lattice pannels that I plan to cut into 9 inch x 8 ft "boards" to mount the aluminum on and where it all came together (in theory for now) is they also have an edge piece that covers the outside edge ...think a tongue and groove 1 x 2 edging. So by overlapping the edging over the butt ends of the lattice it will act like the dowel pins used on the aluminum track pieces. I will rivet or screw the edge pieces onto my lattice boards and butt the edge pieces together with a pull together latch on each side of the joint.
Trying things out in the isle with a Lowes helper there is plenty of flex so the curve will be like the micro wizard track. It might take some oblong holes in the curve section so when dismantled it will lay flat. That will have to be tried and tinkered with. The support stands will be constructed similar to the Micro Wizard uprights either PVC boards or aluminum....not sure about that part yet. It will probably need the weight system like a MW track too.
I hope this epiphany will help with your build. Let me know what you think. I appreciate yours and welcome other's comments as well.
Scott
Re: Vitamin K builds a Track! (slowly)
I'm planning to go minimalist in my assembly of the track sections.Sled2live wrote: ↑Sat Oct 26, 2024 9:29 pm Last winter I had intentions of building a 2 lane test track when I came across an Ebay seller liquidating track sections used to build BSA tracks.
I saw the price creeping down and finally pulled the trigger on 2 lanes worth. A few months later after moving them around the garage a time or two I opened them up and began planning how to put them together. Decided if I was going to go to the effort I should build a 3 or 4 lane track. Contacted the Ebay seller to find out they were all gone. Dang!
That's my luck...so back to the original 2 lane track. I contemplated how I was going to build a better mousetrap and scoured the internet on tracks. I found this site and followed your progress still working out how best to put yours together but I didn't want a wood frame. The heat and humidity here in TX would warp the frame in no time unless climate controlled and even then everything wood, would have to be sealed very well.
I saw a suggestion about using PVC boards and went to Lowes to see what they had. I discovered how I am going to build my track! I figured I would share my finding so if you aren't too far along you might be interested in how I plan to proceed. I found 4 x 8 sheets of PVC lattice pannels that I plan to cut into 9 inch x 8 ft "boards" to mount the aluminum on and where it all came together (in theory for now) is they also have an edge piece that covers the outside edge ...think a tongue and groove 1 x 2 edging. So by overlapping the edging over the butt ends of the lattice it will act like the dowel pins used on the aluminum track pieces. I will rivet or screw the edge pieces onto my lattice boards and butt the edge pieces together with a pull together latch on each side of the joint.
Trying things out in the isle with a Lowes helper there is plenty of flex so the curve will be like the micro wizard track. It might take some oblong holes in the curve section so when dismantled it will lay flat. That will have to be tried and tinkered with. The support stands will be constructed similar to the Micro Wizard uprights either PVC boards or aluminum....not sure about that part yet. It will probably need the weight system like a MW track too.
I hope this epiphany will help with your build. Let me know what you think. I appreciate yours and welcome other's comments as well.
Scott
I plan to cut 20" sections of 2x6 lumber (the 5 sections of track are 19" across) and in the end of each track section, there will be 2 5/16" holes, through which I'll mount to the wood via bolts and t-nuts. One 20" plank will join two track sections,with a total of 4 bolts for each "lane". Might be overkill, but I'm basically copying the attachment mechanism that Microwizard uses.
Re: Vitamin K builds a Track! (slowly)
You will probably need to place some additional 20 inch 2x4 shims under each section to minimize flex like MW does with the 1x4 pieces they use. That is what I am hoping to avoid with the PVC....but may need shims with the PVC too.
Re: Vitamin K builds a Track! (slowly)
I plan to put a supporting piece in the middle of each section...either a piece of 2x4 or 2x2.
Re: Vitamin K builds a Track! (slowly)
I was also thinking 3/4 plywood plates with t nuts like you are thinking for the joints and plywood shims in between. But with the PVC lattice would be able put together and take apart by just the pull together latches (no bolts after initial install) and would give a nice little 1/4 inch outside rail for when racing hotwheel cars that tend to fly off. At least that is my theory. Might not work out as dreamed up though.
I also thought that since mine is only a 2 lane test track I might just permanently mount it to the wall.
If I spent time just picking a plan and putting it together I would be testing/racing right now instead of dreaming and scheming.
hopefully you can get yours up and running soon!
Scott
I also thought that since mine is only a 2 lane test track I might just permanently mount it to the wall.
If I spent time just picking a plan and putting it together I would be testing/racing right now instead of dreaming and scheming.
hopefully you can get yours up and running soon!
Scott
Re: Vitamin K builds a Track! (slowly)
Okay, so, I have actually started building this thing, so I thought I'd share some notes of my adventures thus far.
The track is going to be made of 6 93" sections, each of them 5 lanes wide. This gives a 46.5' track from start to finish. I think the actual running length will probably be about 45' from start to the finish sensor, and I will add an additional stop-section to the end (probably made from wood or hardboard).
I'll go into the legs and the starting gate after I've built, them, but for now I'll just detail what I'm currently working on, which is assembling the "regular" sections.
Each section is joined to the next by a 20" section of 2x6 wooden stud. There is also a section of 2x4 stud in the midpoint of each section to keep it from sagging.
Every lane has two holes drilled at each end, and one hole drilled in the midpoint (for a total of 5 holes). The holes are 5/16" in diameter. I am using 1.5" inch machine screws (1/4" x 20) to affix the track sections to tee-nuts installed in the stud sections.
In order to standardize hole placement on the front and end of each section, I have built a wood "sled" that fits right into the center section of the track. It has two holes in it, that accommodate a 5/16" Harbor Freight transfer punch pin (Everyone needs a set of these, they come in handy for so much).
So the process is, butt the sled up against the end of the track, tap the two hole centers, then measure for the mid-point hole and tap that hole. Using a small drill bit, drill pilot holes through the punched areas, then come back and drill the full 5/16" hole through the pilot hole.
The segments from the manufacturer come with a good bit of burring on the ends where they were probably cut, so I've had to make sure that I take a file and smooth out the ends of all surfaces where car wheels might touch before assembly.
You also have to turn the track over and use a center-punch to tap a small dent into the channel on the underside where the pins insert. This is to keep any pins from sliding too far into the track and vanishing forever.
All in all, it's a pretty time-consuming process, but it's getting faster as I go. I'll hopefully finish section 4 of 6 today, and I'm looking forward to tackling the legs and start gate.
I recognize this info is pretty scattershot, so if there's anything I can illuminate on what I've done thus far, please ask.
The track is going to be made of 6 93" sections, each of them 5 lanes wide. This gives a 46.5' track from start to finish. I think the actual running length will probably be about 45' from start to the finish sensor, and I will add an additional stop-section to the end (probably made from wood or hardboard).
I'll go into the legs and the starting gate after I've built, them, but for now I'll just detail what I'm currently working on, which is assembling the "regular" sections.
Each section is joined to the next by a 20" section of 2x6 wooden stud. There is also a section of 2x4 stud in the midpoint of each section to keep it from sagging.
Every lane has two holes drilled at each end, and one hole drilled in the midpoint (for a total of 5 holes). The holes are 5/16" in diameter. I am using 1.5" inch machine screws (1/4" x 20) to affix the track sections to tee-nuts installed in the stud sections.
In order to standardize hole placement on the front and end of each section, I have built a wood "sled" that fits right into the center section of the track. It has two holes in it, that accommodate a 5/16" Harbor Freight transfer punch pin (Everyone needs a set of these, they come in handy for so much).
So the process is, butt the sled up against the end of the track, tap the two hole centers, then measure for the mid-point hole and tap that hole. Using a small drill bit, drill pilot holes through the punched areas, then come back and drill the full 5/16" hole through the pilot hole.
The segments from the manufacturer come with a good bit of burring on the ends where they were probably cut, so I've had to make sure that I take a file and smooth out the ends of all surfaces where car wheels might touch before assembly.
You also have to turn the track over and use a center-punch to tap a small dent into the channel on the underside where the pins insert. This is to keep any pins from sliding too far into the track and vanishing forever.
All in all, it's a pretty time-consuming process, but it's getting faster as I go. I'll hopefully finish section 4 of 6 today, and I'm looking forward to tackling the legs and start gate.
I recognize this info is pretty scattershot, so if there's anything I can illuminate on what I've done thus far, please ask.
Re: Vitamin K builds a Track! (slowly)
looking good!
Are you bolting your midpoint support in place, or gluing in place like microwizard?
I found that a couple of my pieces weren't cut perfectly square and I had to hand fit them to close the gap.
I used a countersink bit to gently scrub the burrs from the edges of the drilled holes.
Progress is always exciting.
Keep up the good work!
Scott
Are you bolting your midpoint support in place, or gluing in place like microwizard?
I found that a couple of my pieces weren't cut perfectly square and I had to hand fit them to close the gap.
I used a countersink bit to gently scrub the burrs from the edges of the drilled holes.
Progress is always exciting.
Keep up the good work!
Scott
Re: Vitamin K builds a Track! (slowly)
I'm bolting the middle section, the same way the end sections are connected (though with a single row of bolts, as opposed to double).
Because the bolts are 1/4" going into 5/16" holes, there's some play, which means that it shouldn't be hard to move segments around slightly to close gaps when the track is being set up.
I should be cleaning up my holes, but I've gotten kind of lazy, and the holes are covered entirely by the screw head, so...
Because the bolts are 1/4" going into 5/16" holes, there's some play, which means that it shouldn't be hard to move segments around slightly to close gaps when the track is being set up.
I should be cleaning up my holes, but I've gotten kind of lazy, and the holes are covered entirely by the screw head, so...
Sled2live wrote: ↑Mon Nov 11, 2024 12:43 pm looking good!
Are you bolting your midpoint support in place, or gluing in place like microwizard?
I found that a couple of my pieces weren't cut perfectly square and I had to hand fit them to close the gap.
I used a countersink bit to gently scrub the burrs from the edges of the drilled holes.
Progress is always exciting.
Keep up the good work!
Scott